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As is typical of every other mechanic we have met along the way the latest has failed to live up to expectations. Fortunately we were able to locate the problem and can buy the part at the nearest marine store - which is 1500 miles away. Delays caused by having to replace or repair several systems on the boat leaves us with no alternative other than returning to the states for parts (look for a jump in West Marine stock) and renewing our adventure in November. Were it not for the extra time spent trying to fix items that continued to break (by the way it is not just our boat) we would not have met such wonderful fellow cruisers, colorful local rummies (others include us in this group) and helpful souls along the way. We will now have time to fish,snorkel and explore more exotic anchorages as we make our way thru the Panama Canal next season. By the time we get the diesel fixed we will simply be out of time to make it to the Chesapeake before June 1st. This has been more than a boat delivery- we finally recognize that it is indeed all about the journey. Assigning a time frame is not only impossible but adds a level of stress that defeats the purpose of the entire adventure. Adios from El Salvador
We surfed into Bahia Del Sol a week ago to an idealic setting of palm trees, volcanos,pool, $1 beer at the marina bar and the best cheeseburgers in El Salvador.The trip down from Puerto Madero was pleasant and the south wind made it possible to sail a good part of the way (finally). A "magic bus" tour for an hour with the locals to town allowed us to view how most get by here with so little yet always have a smile on their face. We have visited with those here for the "Cruisers Rally to El Salvador" developing lasting friendships and memories. (Ken may have set a cheeseburger eating record.) Well rested, we left yesterday for Nicaragua but an overheated diesel 5 hours out, 6' seas and 25 knots of wind in our face forced us to return to the marina for more "boat repairs in exotic places". Once docked Ken headed for the marina and another cheeseburger. (Sabotage has not been ruled out.) We met a diesel mechanic who is certain he can fix our problem. If so we expect to be back on the road by Saturday when the wind and tide look favorable. It is simply impossible to keep a schedule down here. You must wait for a weather window (or diesel mechanic) and be ready to go. Adios for now.
Headed south from Mexico down Guatamala way. We did not get much of a feel for Guatamala since we went by 15 miles offshore and at night. However, just by virtue of not having to get any paperwork done we decided it is a great place. We did see what was either Vulcan Fuego (an active volcano) or a huge pile of burning tires. As we write this blog we are anchored outside Bahia Jaltepeque waiting to enter the estuary and Bahia del Sol Marina. In order to enter the estuary it must be high tide otherwise the surf over the shoal at the entrance would sink the boat and kill everyone on board. The marina will send a pilot out to lead us through the surf: what could possibly go wrong. We are anxious to get into a slip and go into town for dinner. Due to the dredge situation in Puerto Madero we had to make a hasty exit and did not have time to reprovision. All we have left in the ship's stores is what appears to be a chicken (it has a beak), 3 bags of beans (approximately 75,000 BTU's worth) and a jicama the size of a toaster. We plan to spend 2 days here and then continue south to Nicaragua and the notorious Papagayos winds (as if the T-Peckers weren't enough). Adios from El Salvadore.
After 4 days in Puerto Madero and Chiapas Marina we finally are headed to El Salvador. We had not intended to be in Chiapas for that long but immedately after we entered the dredge went to work and closed the exit for 3 days. We spent the entire first day getting our paperwork done (the paperwork cha-cha in spades). But for the help of the wonderful people (Enrique and Guillermo) at the marina we would still be there. We drove 500 miles on the same 10 mile stretch of highway. We were searched by military personnel and a very disinterested dog when we arrived and again when we left. While in Chiapas the water pump on the genset went out. Amazingly we were able to find a fellow (Enrique's cousin) who was able to rebuild it. Ken was the mechanic who took the pump off and re-installed it. Unfortunately it was a hot day and the beer caught up to Ken delaying the re-install by 12 hours. He finished just in time and we made our deadline. We just crossed into Guatamala and changed flags. We have not been having any luck fishing until the boat ahead of us called and said they were having great luck on a small green rubber skirted squid. We of course didn't have any so we Texas rigged a rubber skirted devise Ken bought in an adult book store and just caught our first sierra mackeral (dinner). Adios from Guatamala
Today we left Huatulco after 8 days. The town of Crucectia and Santa Cruz are beautiful and we saw all the sights. We ate cow heads, pig heads, fish heads, and the heads of virtually all indiginous flora and fauna in southern Mexico. It is now time to head to El Salvador and eat the heads of other animals. For several days the toilet seat in the forward head has been held on by 1 hinge. We had been looking for a replacement and, being in Mexico, figured there would be quite an assortment of toilet paraphenalia. However, no luck. Today while crossing the Bay of Tihuantepec the other hinge broke and the toilet seat along with a passenger went flying. Having 1 toilet is like having only 1 Raycor fuel filter. Having learned a lesson in trying to fix our alternator and oil leak the toilet seat is now held in place with duct tape. This may actually be an improvement due to the added friction and the non skid nature of duct tape. So far the conditions have been calm with light wind and seas in the Bay of Tihuantepec. It looks like it will hold until we arrive in Puerto Madero. Adios for now.
It has been a solid week in Huatulco waiting for a weather window. The T-peckers have been blowing strong. That sounds more interesting than it really is. It simply means that the winds blowing through the Bay of Tihuantepec have been far too strong for us to proceed. It looks like we will have a weather window starting Monday afternoon which will hold for at least 4 days. That should be sufficient for us to make it across and to our next stop which is Puerto Madero, the last stop in Mexico. Then it is on to El Salvador and the Marina Barillas. Last night in Huatulco we went off the grid and found a very authentic Mexican eatery. We were the only gringos and in fact the only patrons. We had our choice of the cow head (cabeza) quesadilla or the chicken quesadilla. We chose chicken although the cow head looked good but it was a COW HEAD. The hot sause was not dumbed down and it was green liquid fire. Ken overdid it had and had a meltdown right at the table. He turned gray and was only revived by several very cold cervesas. We survived but it ain't over yet. Have provisioned the boat with 20 lbs of limes to prevent scurvy and the appropriate number of cervezas to avoid mutiny. Adios from Huatulco.
We arrived safely in Huatulco on the north side of the notorious Bay of Tihuantepec. Here we will wait for a weather window before trying to transit the bay (about 200 miles). Right now it looks like Saturday or Sunday at the earliest. We have met several other cruisers who are doing exactly the same thing so we compare weather information every morning first thing. The wait offers a welcome rest in a really beautiful area and an opportunity to get back to solving our alternator and oil leak issues. After more consultation with "mechanics" referred by people we don't know we have solved the problems "Mexican style". We unplugged the alternator and bought more oil - problem solved; we continue south. Ken has gone native much like the crew on the "Bounty". Since he is dead ringer for Marlon Brandow it kind of makes sense. He got a hotel room in town (Cruzecita) for a couple of nights in an effort to stop rocking and rest his back. More on that as the situation evolves.
Stayed in Puerto Angel last night, the town of 11 different kinds of bananas. The town and anchorage are really quaint and the entire area is beautiful. Tom and Ken practiced their dingy landing through the surf while numerous locals fought among themselves for salvage rights. They didn't time the waves quite right and surfed in with Ken hanging at least ten plus an ample girth. During their short time ashore they found no bananas at all but did see a tourist (female) in a thong. It was good to see a thong used for it's intended purpose. Fortunately they made it to the beach in an upright condition and with the help of a local (who was smoking a big fattie and thoroughly enjoying our adventure) hauled the dinghy up above the high tide mark. Today we are headed to Huatulco to find a diesel mechanic(s) to find our oil leak, watch the superbowl and wait for a weather window to cross the notorious Bay of Tihuantepec. Adios for now.
Have decided to bypass Acapulco and continue to Punta Galera where we will rest up for final push to Huatulco. This is a shame because we were all anxious to try cliff diving. Our new crew member Ken a/k/a Nightwatch Ken (he has slept in the cockpit the last 2 nights not understanding we don't need a night watch while in a slip or anchored) has been wearing his thong all day just to break it in. It is now thoroughly broken in and ready for cliff diving. Ken's ensemble of thong and wife-beater shirt combined with a world class sunburn has made him look like a barber pole. He would have been a real crowd pleaser in Acapulco. Fishing has not been good: all we can catch is bonito. We see sailfish jumping all around the boat but no takers. We released all the bonitos and went to plan B which is an entire chicken in the crockpot. Alternator has done fine so far today; Ken is well rested for his shift tonight (9:00 pm to 4:00 am). Adios from somewhere around Acapulco.
We used to think that the movie Groundhog Day was impossible. That was before cruising in Mexico. This was our 5th morning in Ixtapa and everyday starts the same. We find a guy (referred by someone we have never met) who can fix our alternator. He takes it off and disappears for several hours; returns and re-installs it. It works exactly the same as it did before he "worked" on it. We are however getting better at negotiating the price. Yesterday we paid the guy not to fix it only half of what we paid the first guy not to fix it. In Mexico that's progress. It seems odd that in a marina full of boats (all with an alternator/regulator) that nobody can figure out our problem. After discussing the matter among ourselves we realized that we had not seen a single boat leave the slip since we arrived. Do the math. On a brighter note we left Ixtapa this morning headed south secure in the thought that our alternator is working as well as it can in Mexico. Ixtapa is beautiful and the food is great but it was clearly time to leave. Adios for now.
We arrived in Ixtapa no worse for the wear. However, our new Link battery monitor indicates problems with the alternator. Repair of anything is difficult in Mexico and this is no exception. While plugged into shore power no big deal but we can't find an extension cord which will reach Panama. Within an hour of arriving here on Friday a "guy" had removed it from the boat and showed up the next day having rebuilt it for 1500 pesos - of course it still had the same problem but the guy said if we couldn't fix it he would look at it again (and not fix it again) for no additional charge (down here that's not a bad deal). Another guy is coming tomorrow who was THE mechanic for the Mexican Marines. We are assuming he is a diesel mechanic and not the Charles Bronson type "mechanic"-not a sure thing. As they say "...boat repair in exotic places". Adios for now.
Yesterday morning we motored out of Las Hadas southbound to Ixtapa. We met some wonderful people at the anchorage and hated to leave but leave we must. Las Hadas is a great anchorage and the 200 pesos per boat fee to use the marina and hotel facilities (including the pool) is well worth it. We head south in calm conditions (no wind) and all systems go with one noteable exception. Jeanne read in Practical Sailor magazine that hard boiled eggs are a great snack during night watch. They are but there is a down side. We boiled up 2 dozen eggs and have been eating them for the past 2 days along with hot sause, beer and radishes (we got a deal on radishes). All of our alarms from the carbon monoxide to the anchor alarm were sounding off. We learned on Google that those ingredients are the primary components of weapons grade methane gas. We are aware that a dangerous condition may exist and are mindful that an open flame or even a spark below deck could be catastrophic. We will take the necessary precautions-we have deployed fans. Adios till Ixtapa.
This morning after a cup of coffee we stowed the anchor on deck and motored out of Las Hadas. We met some wonderful people and hated to leave but leave we must. Las Hadas is a great anchorage and the 200 pesos per boat fee to use the marina and hotel facilities (including the pool) is well worth it. We are headed to Ixtapa in calm conditions and all systems are go with one noteable exception. Jeanne read in Practical Sailor magazine that hard boiled eggs make a great snack during night watch. That is true but there is a down side. We boiled up a couple dozen eggs and have been eating them along with hot sause, beer and radishes (we got a deal on radishes) for the past two days. All of our alarms from the carbon monoxide alarm to the anchor alarm have been sounding off. On Google we learned that these ingredients are the primary components of weapons grade methane gas. We are aware that a dangerous condition may exist and mindful that any open flame or even a spark below decks could spell disaster. Adios
Bo Derick ran the beach 30 years ago and they have not cleaned the banos since. Wow! In Las Hadas the toilets fight back. Jeanne spent the day relaxing at the pool. Tom and Gary spent the day starring in a new game show "Are you Dumber Than a Winch Handle". Here is a suggestion: don't untie your dinghy from the boat before you install and test your new outboard fuel hose. That is exactly what we did and found ourselves floating with no motor (and of course no oars) towards the rock jetty. We had to paddle like crazy with our hands to make it beyond the jetty and land on the hotel beach. The guard did not know whether to help us, shoot us or offer us political asylum. Finally a guy from another boat happened by and suggested we turn the fuel hose around. We did and it worked great. We are dumber than a winch handle.
We discovered that in Tenacatita you can't drink the water-if you don't have any. We decided to try out our watermaker and succeeded in losing pressure in our main system. We were unable to figure out why the pressure pump would not prime. Made the decision to return to PV to get both systems fixed when a marine mechanic from a neighboring boat came by to offer assistance. In 2 hours both systems were running and he would only let us buy b-fast as payment. This allowed us to stay in Tenacatita for the finals of the World Championship Womens Topless Beach Volleyball Tournament-we did however miss the NFL playoff games so if anyone knows who won please drop us a line. |
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Gary Hostetler & Tom Rhodes
Saturday March 03, 2012 @ 03:25 PM GMT+00:00
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