edward p witzke

 
 Balanddra to La Paz (LP) 
Lat:24.1833° Lon:-110.3033°  Wind: N 2.0 kt | Temp:66° | 

An easy 2 hr ride to LP but the channel was hard to find because the entrance buoys were out of place. We had been warned that this was the case, so we went very slowly and worked our way to Marina Palmira. We had an electrical problem coming up from Los Muertos that was causing most of our systems to fail. We turned most of the systems off and met up with our electrician friend Dennis in LP. He had done our original work and most of the installs in Portland, then did the Ha Ha last year. Using the voltmeter, he determined that our issue was between the batteries and the DC electrical panel. After tightening the connections, the systems came to life. There didn't seem to be anything specific that was wrong, but it all works now. Yesterday was Thanksgiving and there is a get-together for the boats here. Jud made a pumpkin cheesecke to take. We went with some friends in a rental car to Todos Santos, and had lunch at Hotel California, made famous by the rock group "Eagles". Paul was driving, got stopped by the policia, but no problemo. Seems I was going to fast, altho we were the slowest car on the road, which I told the guy. (En Espanol, claro)Today we take the ferry from LP to Topolobampo to see Copper Canyon, purported to be more spectacular than Grand Canyon. This is a 4 day train trip, so we won't be back until Dec. 2. We miss all our fam and friends back home.

 
 we aren't getting e-mails 
Lat:24.1833° Lon:-110.3033°  Wind: NNE 4.5 kt | Temp:69° | 

It appears some e-mails to Skymate are dropping out. Please e-mail us at pwitzke@comcast.net rather than the Skymate address.

 
 Los Muertos to Balandra 
Lat:24.1833° Lon:-110.3033°  Wind: W 3.5 kt | Temp:73° | 

On 11/17 we decided to move on to Balandra. The "norther" appeared to have dissipated and the weather forecast was for 10 kt winds. About 6 boats left Muertos, some with food poisoning thanks to the local resort. We had not eaten there. We had to go thru 2 channels so there was a funneling effect and the wind went up over 20 kts and the seas from the norther were still coming in. At any rate it was a tough trip. Paul didn't put on a scop patch, but took a dramamine pill that made him drowsy, so Judy was at the helm for about 9 hrs. We were running approx 2700 rpm with about 1/3 of the main, beating against the wind. Bad chop that would just about bring the boat to a stop. It must have shook some wiring connections loose, so we lost the refrigerator and we needed to shut a lot of the electrics, including water pump, down. Finally arrived at the small anchorage of Balandra right at sunset, so we were able to anchor without a hitch in about 40'. We spent a fairly calm nite, until about 6 am when Jud got up and noticed that "Blue Dolphin" had dragged anchor and was drifting out to sea. Tried to reach him on the VHF to no avail, so jumped in the dingy with handheld VHF and air horn and took off to retrieve him. His anchor light still on, I finally caught him in about 15 minutes. At some point he had realized he was dragging and had decided to move on to La Paz. He must have been really blitzed, so I turned the dink around and returned to "Grace" who was getting pretty concerned. Shortly thereafter, we pulled the anchor and headed into La Paz.

 
 Several days at Ensenada de los Muertos 
Lat:24.1833° Lon:-110.3033°  Wind: W 3.5 kt | Temp:74° | 

Originally written 11/16/09.
We are still here at Los Muertos, waiting out a "Screaming Blue Norther" that is supposed to pass by tonight and Monday. The anchorage is fairly protected and so we decided to stay here rather than risk a bad trip to La Paz. Judy is worried that we will run out of fresh water but we havent even used up the first tank. The anchorage is a bit rolly-polly and she was getting nauseated, so she took a new scop patch with a draminmine chaser. Then had to sleep for a while. Yep this cruising life is a blast. Being Sunday, we put out a VHF call for a little harbor church session, and the people from Theopolis came over in their dingy. We sang Amazing Grace & What a Friend we have in Jesus, and then did scripture readings from Romans 8:31 and Phillipians 4:4. We had a great time. The guy is a New Zealander, his name is "kiwi", wife Debbie and cute little blonde girl Anastasia. We are looking for some big winds tonite, so will do lots of anchor watch. No phone service until La Paz, so I don't get to discuss the stock market with Dad.

 
 Los Frailes to Los Muertos 
Lat:23.9885° Lon:-109.8280°  Wind: WSW 8.5 kt | Temp:71° | 

No wind was the word today. Up at 6;00 am and arrival to Muertos at 2:00 pm, an uneventful voyage under motor. This is a beutiful anchorage with about 20 sail boats at anchor. We found 22' in sand, and put out scope of about 5 to 1. Paul dived the anchor, and it it so well buried we could not see it. Success! Paul had purchased a 65 lb claw (very oversized for Grace) and it has been an amazing anchor. We actually sleep peacefully at night, altho old habits persist and I am up several times during the night to check our position. Jud is reading now, Paul had a great swim in water that was like a warm swim pool, The ambient temp at 4:00 pm is 90 deg. As an aside, at the "We cheated death" party, we heard the story of the Ha-Ha people who had been holed by a pod of whales. Their boat sank within 40 minutes, and they had given out a Mayday that was not heard by anybody. Their epirb went off and coast guard helicopters arrived 4 hrs later. All of the all-female crew was rescued. The Ha Ha people flew her down to Cabo to tell her story, which will appear in the next issue of Latitude 38 Magazine. The whales did not actually attack the sailboat, as sometimes occurs, The huge waves drove the boat down onto the whales and holed the boat. It had to be very scary. Now off to dinner at the Giggling Marlin on shore.

 
 grace393 
Lat:22.8824° Lon:-109.9096°  Wind: NNE 7.0 kt | Temp:75° | 

We cannot receive email without the subject heading saying 'grace393'. Please write. Judy is homesick. Thanks, Judy

 
 Still in Cabo 
Lat:22.8824° Lon:-109.9096°  Wind: NNW 5.0 kt | Temp:74° | 

We are not able to send e-mails or receive e-mails. I'm sure Paul will figure out the problem when he has some free time. We are trying to get the outboard working before we leave Cabo. Yesterday we watched two little dogs run around the top of a bar owned by an ex-cop from LA. That wasn't half as crazy as the 100 or so fishing boats heading out each morning at 6:00 am. Grid lock on the water may be possible.
Saturday night we heard the story of the boat that sank after hitting whales. It was an all women crew and they handled the situation like pros. The boat took about forty minutes to sink and they were in the life raft for four hours before the coast guard helicopter reached them. They bailed water with hats and boots. It appears no one heard their mayday but the epirb did the job. The SSB was already under water. The whales did not attack the boat. They hit the whales during the high winds and waves of the first leg. Coast guard estimated the waves between 20 and 25 feet. As you may recall, Keith was at the helm when we were out in that mess and after getting pooped several times and having to hand steer I decided it would be a long night at sea if we didn't head back. No one argued with me. They said this was the toughest haha they have ever had. We were blessed with the best crew imaginable. Thanks Mark and Keith.

 
 Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo 
Lat:22.8824° Lon:-109.9096°  Wind: WNN 5.0 kt | Temp:78° | 

We were up early for a 6:00 am departure from Santa Maria. The winds were light, so we had a "rolling start" from the start line. This means that engines were going because not enough wind to sail. This was the beginning of the third and final leg to Cabo. When we weighed the anchor, we found an electircal problem: the anchor would go up, but not down. So this is something that we must take care of in Cabo before we leave for La Paz. Our engineers think it is a problem with the relay. The chandelry opens at 7:30 this morning. Sure hope this is a quick fix. Once underway on 11/4/09, we found ourselves running in the upper 1/3 of the fleet, our best performance yet. We were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise. Many porpoises were sighted, we had Jud's fajitas for lunch, and Mark ran sun sights on the sextant that I had given Jud for her birthday. We were under full sails, a close reach and we hit 7.1 kts SOG (speed over ground) with 9.3 kts of true wind. No doubt a record for Grace. We had the fish line out, but no luck this time. As night approached, we had a beautiful full moon with 17 boats in sight. The Grand Pooba of the event said this was perhaps the most beautiful final leg in 20 years of sailing down to Cabo. Our final day (11/5) was fairly uneventful, except for the thrill of coming around the cape and seeing our goal: Cabo San Lucas. Eleven days for the entire voyage. The bay was a madhouse with 3 cruise ships, pangas going in all directions, kayaks, porpoises galore and pelicans by the dozens. Of course there were many, many fishing boats. We danced our way to the harbor entrance with Mark, Keith, and Jud on the foredeck searching for our slip, and Paul at the helm. We found our slip and immediately went to immigration to check in. Mark and Keith are departing on Saturday, so it was important to get the paperwork done quickly. Then on to the famous party at Squid Roe. Steve, Tracy and Foster bought us a margarita for our help with their vessel (Black Dragon) as we were coming down the coast off Mendecino. It was very loud so Jud and I left after the margarita, but Mark and Keith stayed on for a little longer. Then off to the boat for some sleep.

 
 Our day in Cabo 
Lat:22.8824° Lon:-109.9096°  Wind: W 8.0 kt | Temp:80° | 

This was a day for the record book. Mark and Keith did extraordinary duty with the windlass and honed their engineering skills to a fine point. Working throughout the day, sweating, and doing their thing they really did an outstanding job for Grace. They finally had to break open the Lewmar windlass in order to find the problem. It turned out to be a broken spade connector from vibration. The guys soldered some parts together, worked their magic, and voila, the windlass now goes up and down! We had to go out and buy an impact wrench, a soldering iron, and some other parts, but the local ACE hardware store and automotive store provided the required parts. These guys are the greatest, we would probably never have been able to leave for La Paz without their help. So after finishing the job we had a pre-prandial of rum and coke, then got some much needed showers before heading out for a great dinner. Now we are back on the boat and looking forward to a post prandial. Life is good, the guys are heading back to Seattle tomorrow and we will miss them. Thanks a lot Mark and Keith.

 
 Bahia Santa Maria 
Lat:24.7725° Lon:-112.2534°  Wind: WNN 12.0 kt | Temp:75° | 

It's Tuesday in Bahia Santa Maria and our first day on land since the beginning of our epic. Paul and Judy took the panga boat ride offer ashore while Mark and Keith massaged the dinghy engine back to life after its summer long hiatus.
Keith dove on the ship's hull to verify the absense of kelp on the prop shaft and rudder. The real reason was a needed bath in the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean.
A new sun shade was erected over the boom by Paul and Mark to provide welcomed relief to the cockpit from the near tropic sun. We all had to constantly remind ourselves that this is the beginning of November and the return to the NW will have a definite change of weather.
This little lagoon is a sand ringed postcard photo holding 150+ sailboats in its protection from the rolling ocean waves. A paradise like this back home would be ringed by hotels, condos and restaurants, but the nearby hills hold less than a half dozen small buildings, buried in the hillside for protection from seasonal storms.
For this gathering of the Baja fleet, a band traveled 100 miles from La Paz to entertain the sailors. Two HaHa sailors jammed with the music on saxophones. Pacifica and Corona beer was available with a shrimp meal prepared by locals. Everyone enjoyed the afternoon with food, drink, volleyball and hikes up the mountainside. What a great break from the confines of the boats anchored in the harbor below.
Mark and Keith made the trek up the hillside to photograph Grace at anchor while Paul and Judy replenished the fuel tanks from the jerry cans on deck. Upon our return, we checked the engine, the sail systems and cleaned the boat in preparation for the final leg of sailing into Cabo San Lucas - 36 hours away to the south.
Keith built a pan of lasagne for the evening dinner. As we enjoyed the last forkfulls, a primal baying rang out from all directions of the lagoon. A mass movement to the cockpit deck was rewarded with a globe of gold rising from the strip of sand that forms the eastern boundary of the anchorage. The moon may not yet be full, but the sillouette that it brought to the many boats between us and the beach was spectacular.
We weigh anchor at 6:00 am to make Cabo in daylight two days hence, so everyone is taking today's images and thoughts to bed early tonight.
Goodnight to all.

 
 Turtle Bay to Bahia Santa Maria 
Lat:24.7724° Lon:-112.2539°  Wind: NW 6.5 kt | Temp:76° | 

We left Turtle Bay Sat. 10/31 at 11:00 am & arrived at Santa Maria 12:00 noon Nov. 2. We crossed the finish line for leg 2 under sail. It was a great run, but we did need to motor part of the time. Last night we had beautiful moon shining that lit up the boats all converging on Santa Maria. We saw a big turtle along the way. We were able to track down some electrical problems that had just developed, thanks to Mark and Keith. We had developed a huge power drain each time we used the refrigerator, the water pump, and the macerator. It turned out that the wires leading to the fridge were loose. The water pump used the same wire, so it also looked faulty. And the macerator was stuck, just like a kitchen disposal might seize up. So we were able to solve all those pesky problems. Judy called them suicidal problems. I just hung out the BBQ and we are anxious to taste test the tuna that we caught yesterday. It's Mark's turn to prep dinner tonight so he is playing the master chef role.

It is amazing to look out over the bay and see the flotilla out there, almost a couple hundred boats here at Santa Maria. Quite a sight. The weather here at 2:00 is wonderful, about 80 deg. I went for a swim to do an anchor check (you know I am somewhat paranoid) and it looks OK. I'm always up several times during the night to check that the anchor hasn't been dragging.

 
 somewhere between two bays 
Lat:25.5253° Lon:-113.0650°  Wind: WSW 6.0 kt | Temp:73° | 

Well this has been an interesting couple of days. Yesterday after a restful sleep in turtle bay, we and about 180 other boats left the bay in one big group at about 11:00 in the morning. It was an amazing sight. All kinds of colorful spinikers were up as we sailed to the south and out into the open ocean.

As daylight ended the faster boats had moved ahead and were now over the horizon and out of sight. The slower boats fell behind us, and a group of boats in our class formed up and ventured in to the darkness as we headed 190 miles south to Bahia Santa Maria.

As night fell and while I was cooking dinner, we discovered some electrical problems on board. We found that suddenly we were not able to use our Macerator (a useful little device that lets us use an onboard holding tank), our drinking water pump failed to pump water and our refrigerator stopped running.

We decided to finished a dinner of meatloaf,mashed potatoes and french bread and after dinner settle into the task of trying to figure out how to get our refrigerator and water to work. This trouble shooting exercise went on for a few hours before we finally determined to give up for the evening, and run at night with just the bare electrical esentials. We would look at the wiring issues in the morning.

Night sailing is beautiful with the moon out in full. During the night we sailed with about 18 other boats close by. We really were ships that pass in the night . We kept track of our positon and the location of the other boats with our radar, AIS system and binoculars. It was truley a remarkable evening filled with moonlight on the ocean clean air and plentiful stars over head. We all took our turns (as usual ) guiding the boat through the night while the others slept below.

Sunday morning was busy. We all began pulling up the below deck boards, storage compartments, and electrical panels in an effort to try to understand the nature of the electrical problems. The entire day was spent by all hands trying to do what they could to correct the electrical problems. The clock was ticking as our frozen food could not take this for much longer.

As we were absorbed in the electical mystery madness, keith looked behind the boat and said that he thought he saw a fish taking strikes at the lure that we were trailing from the boat. Whoo ho...we had a nice 2 foot, yellow fin tuna on. pretty exciting! This will make a nice dinner.

Paul Judy and keith were able to open up the area of the boat that houses the refergeration compressor and keith found some wires that were not completely spliced. after fixing this, the water pump and refrigerator came back to life. I took a look at the macerator unit and found that it had become stuck. I was able to find a way to turn its motor by hand and free the unit. Soon it too was working again..

So as I write this blog, our water pump works, our refrigerator is purring away, we can use our toilet system, the radios work, the lights work, the radar works and the crew is happy. We are moving silently south off the coast of mexico compliments of a steady 13knt breeze. I have just filled up on keiths cajun bar-b-que shrimp, there is a full moon out tonight, and we are getting close to our 2nd to last stop. All is right with the world. We should see land early tomorrow morning.

Mark Maier

 
 "grace393" 
Lat:25.6608° Lon:-113.1928°  Wind: SSW 1.5 kt | Temp:74° | 

Hi out there. This is just an admin notice for you if you wish to write us a message. Due to an unbelievable amount of spam, the skymate people suggested that "grace393" must appear in the subject line. It will work like a filter.

 
 San Quintin to Turtle Bay 
Lat:27.5849° Lon:-114.8523°  Wind: N 12.0 kt | Temp:70° | 

This was a good passage compared to the prior day. We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed moderate winds. We arrived at Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay) at about 6:00 p.m. so we missed the beach party there. We filled up the diesel jugs and topped off the main fuel tank. We took on about 40 gal. diesel so we will be set for the ride to Bahia Santa Maria.

All is well and no big problems. Our garbage is accumulating, so we are storing it in the stern locker. Hopefully we can offload it in Santa Maria. Everyone healthy and (of course) eating well. Outside temp. is 76 deg. The scenery is breathtaking, never saw anything like these rock formations. Lots of wildlife in Tortuga harbor...dolphins, pelicans, and other assorted sea creatures including whales spouting.

 
 Colnett to San Quintin 
Lat:30.2323° Lon:-115.9356°  Wind: NNE 8.5 kt | Temp:61° | 

The daring, but cautious crew of the sailing vessel Grace departed Colnett at approximately 8:30 on Wednesday morning, accompanied by playful dolphins, the northwest Indian protector of sailors. As usual we had discussed the sail plan for the day and chose to put up the new trisail as a precaution from a forecast of building winds. The decision proved wise later in the day.
Mark and Keith walked through the steps of safely raising the sail before tethering themselves to jacklines and moving the sail forward on the deck for attachment and raising.
Once the trisail was raised and the jib let out to its second reef point, we ran a broad reach southward under winds of 15-20 knots and rolling seas of 8-10 feet. After a few hours heading out to sea, we encountered the sailing ketch Jammin', who were struggling with a jib sail that could not be reefed. They reported that they were headed for San Quintin, as they sailed back towards shore.
WIthin an hour after meeting Jammin', the winds built to 20-25 knots, gusting to 34 and the seas rose accordingly to 17-18 feet. Rather than continue on to Turtle Bay and risk running these seas through the night, we agreed to turn in early to San Quintin. We regularly surfed following seas, in 22-24 knot winds, reaching 10.3 knots at one point - a speed record for Grace and a thrill for her crew.
The breakfast cereal and burrito lunch served earlier by Judy,had been used up by the extra energy required to steer the boat and watch the elements, as the auto pilot refused to cope with the confused seas. Most swells approched predictably from our stearn, but random outlaws would try to sneak in from our port quarter. Another first for Grace was a single pooping wave that generously washed the food crumbs from our cockpit and gave some of the crew their first bathing since leaving San Diego. The trisail and reefed jib set up performed beautifully, the boat steered responsively and we easily controlled our way into San Quintin.
The crew could now relax with a glass of wine. We raised toasts to each other on our collective skills and attitude during the challenges of the day, and raised one more for this splendid boat.
All felt somewhat drained by the day and agreed on snacks for dinner rather than ask Mark to pull another culinary rabbit from his hat.
As crew, we ballance each other in skills, risk acceptance and attitudes. Mark is leading the team in our attempts to master the sextant, and we are all learning more about weather interpretation and navigation.
What a great bunch to confine to 39 feet of floating comradery!

 
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